If it happens again I would be checking connections and crud for corrosion also.
Interesting...
One of the reasons I sign on to other websites is looking for these exact problems. The next is the 'why' it happens?
The trivia I come across when I read text books, shows me 'theory' and how it could backup this very thing. The example is watt E means. It goes right back to the basics. Magnetism is heat and a chemical reaction. So if you cannot separate the 3, but can find 1 variable to explain it:
Mag: Well, the battery says it's well charged and the AC out of the stator both function as per = Not it.
Heat: This is the same walk-thru as eliminating fuel/spark/or compression to make an engine run. = Not it.
ChemRe: Ding-Ding-Ding, we have a winner!
The next example is another basic diagnose you follow:
ECU: Say this is the main brain or one of 3 variables to chase.
Wire: This is the 2nd link to look for if we say our 3 variables are (1)Connector not connected. (2)Wire out of connector. Or (3)sensor is out of spec/short to ground. So we have 2 wire ends to show integrity from one end to the other.
Jobber: This is the sensor, light bulb, fuel pump assy, etc. Watt would cause the jobber not to work?
With these 4 sets of variables, we have to narrow down 1 between these 12 links:
1. Fuel = It has.
2. Spark = It has.
3. Compression = It has.
4. Connector = It's plugged in.
5. Wire out = It's not.
6. Jobber = It's not out of spec or shorted internally.
7. ECU = It's not coded so as to point to this.
8. Wire = It's not broken from one end to the other.
9. Jobber = It's not a broken bulb/sensor out of spec/shorted/etc.
10. Mag = It makes E when engine is spun/battery is new and well charged.
11. Heat = It has molecules banging each other so the jobbers function (current that is).
12. ChemRe = Ding-Ding-Ding, It's the only conclusion you can come to is poor flow from wire to jobber at either end or both ends.
You did nothing but unplug the "corrosion" at both/either ends, stopped short of dismantling the fuel pump or chasing a motherboard, but plugged it back in and it works... no parts/repairs needed. I could be wrong but that's watt I think.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time